The Mugello valley RESTAURANT GUIDE
estab. by Channa Samkalden (CS) and Georg Sommeregger (GS);
contributors: CS, GS, Katherine Worthington (KW)
(created 22feb05) Very small, and will feed on your input!
Do write and send us information on places you like, eatback, certamente anche in lingua italiana, to this e-mail
e buon appetito.
[UPDATE NOTE 2.10.2008: this page is not maintained any more, but you can send info and we can add it. If you yourself live in the Mugello, why not take over?]
Apart from being home to the Ferrari autodromo, 'il Mugello' is a placid green valley, situated at 30km north ca. of Florence. The many recipes original from this region can either be cooked at home, we recommend however to go visit some of the many nice restaurants in the region. What follows is our personal picks from restaurants in and around Vicchio and Borgo San Lorenzo.
How to reach the Mugello: from Florence, drive north on the Via Faentina. If you come from Fiesole, drive towards Olmo, where you will join the Faentina. It is ca. half an hour's drive. On your way, you actually already pass by two restaurants we can recommend: the first being the 'Quattro strade' in Olmo. It is a solid place to go if you look for something quiet a bit outside Florence. It is placed quite high up, and dining there can be quiet and special. Closed on Tuesdays. A bit further down the road is the excellent 'Feriolo'. There is a sign to your right a couple of kilometers after Olmo. Don't be afraid of the dark, you will find it after 5 minutes on a minuscule road. This restaurant is not to be missed! We recommend the tagliata, also the house wine is very very good. These restaurant done, you can finally proceed to the Mugello.
1. Le Lance
(after a day in Florence: on your left, above the EUI, as you head up to Fiesole from Florence on the No 7 bus) for their degustazione evenings every Thursday (three or four courses plus matching wines for €25). Excellent quality. (KW)
(psst: if you happen to be an EUI student, ask for 'lo sconto dell' università europea' GS)
2. Da Graziella
(after another day in Florence: in Maiano, a village off to the right as you head up the hill, on the same road, to Fiesole) for typical Tuscan trattoria fare. (KW)
1. 'Ristorante Mario'
Ristorante Mario Alla Querciola Di Moscardi Marco
Just after Caldine, località 'La Fabbrica', you can't miss it. Nice local kitchen. GS
2. 'Quattro Strade'
Ristorante - Pizzeria
On the crossroad (hence the name) just after Olmo. Good place to dine high above Florence. GS
Food is decent, though nothing spectacular. Tip: go
for the desert! CS
4. La Panacea
Great view, but they charge too much for what you get, aiming at the average Tuscany tourist. Not recommended, but if you do end up there, go for loads of antipasti! CS
5. La Casa del prosciutto
On the upper road from Fiesole towards Olmo.
6. Pizzeria Santa Brigida
A bit off, in Santa Brigida.
(Check for opening times). Very crowded with locals, fine pizza and a good view over the valley. Tip: in summer, have an aperitivo or a digestivo on the square,from the casa del populo nextdoor. CS
Worth the detour! GS
by Katherine Worthington (KW)
1. Il Bronco
(on the road between Scarperia and Ponzalla) for traditional Tuscan home cooking on the terrace.
2. Anna Trend
(at the bottom end of Scarperia) for the best tortelli mugellani and ravioli in the Mugello, also good pizzas, weiss beer and great staff.
3. The Pizzeria in Grezzano
(head towards Borgo San Lorenzo via the autodrome and follow signs) for family atmosphere and the best pizzas around.
4. Ristorante dei Tre Laghi
(on the way down to Scarperia from Ponzalla, take right fork, continue to roundabout where you turn left, and then first right, then follow signs) for outside eating by a lake, and fly fishing for those who are interested!
5. Osteria Girodibacco
(on right hand side of the road on your way to the Lago di Bilancino from Scarperia) for slightly more expensive but excellent quality Tuscan specialities (particularly fish and bistecca) in a strangely Scandinavian-chalet-type interior.
6. Bahia Café
(a bit further afield: follow the signs for the Lago di Bilancino and keep on going, almost all the way round) for long aperitivo on the banks of the lake as the sun sets – full to bursting on summer weekends. Take your swimming suit!
50032 Borgo San Lorenzo (FI) - 5, VIA MONTEBELLO
Very good pizza for surprisingly small price! A small place with very nice service. Definitely recommended. GS
Pizza! Pizza! it's so good we didn't even try anything
else.. O yes, the tiramisu - do try it..CS
2. 'La Griglia'
Ristorante - Pizzeria
Looks much more terrible from the outside than from the inside, although the interioir will appeal especially to the IKEA-fan. Something new in Italy. A bit pricy - except for the pizza's - but good. CS
3. Ristorante degli Artisti
(in the centre of Borgo San Lorenzo) for an expensive and delicious meal out. (KW)
4. Il teatro dei Medici
drive out of Borgo towards Scarperia, soon on the right sider. recommended! (entry follows)
1. 'Il Giorgione'
Bar Alimentari Trattoria Il Giorgione
Situated in Sagginale. If you come from Florence, shortly before you reach Borgo S. Lorenzo, you will see a sign to 'Vicchio' on your right hand side. Follow this and you will be in Sagginale in 3 minutes.
'Da Giorgione' is famous for its tortelli alla mugellana. People actually come all the way from Florence just to have a dish of those. TIP: if you only want to go for a 'quick primo' during the day, you will find 50 m left of the actual ristorante a small bottega which is from the same owner, and where you can have a wonderful tortello and glass of wine without the coperto. GS
2. 'Casa di Caccia' (closed Tue)
Famous for its bistecca alla fiorentina.
If it's great, it's great. Trouble is sometimes it's not so great. It depends on the chef's mood! GS
Good view! Go when it's still light! CS
1. 'Ristorante Giotto', Piazza Giotto, Vicchio
Situated in one corner of the main square of Vicchio, this is a simple restaurant with a choice of normally three primi and two or three secondy. Small and cosy, very good food. GS
Ristorante - Pizzeria
Local trattoria/pizzaria, lively in its very Italian way and food is just what you may expect CS
For a quick bite, it can be amusing. Pre-euro prices! GS
Special Effects! CS
4. 'La Casa Matta'
The mad house. lively and nice for both lunch and dinner, Good pasta! CS
5. Bar-pizzeria Piazza Giotto
A normal coffee-bar during the week, turns into the local event on Fridays. The whole village and surroundins come for pizza. Great in summer, when there is a terrace right on the square. CS
6. 'l'antica porta levante'
Slighly upscale, not a trattoria but a real restaurante, classy and with good food, at the entrance to the old town. CS
1. the vino della casa (house wine) can be surprisingly good in some places.
2. do follow the recommendations of the chef, do eat the 'della casa' dishes.
Tuscan cooking at home: